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<simpleviewerGallery maxImageWidth="500" maxImageHeight="500" textColor="0xFFFFFF" frameColor="0xffffff" frameWidth="3" stagePadding="100" thumbnailColumns="3" thumbnailRows="5" navPosition="left" title="DN Reconstruction" enableRightClickOpen="true" backgroundImagePath="" imagePath="" thumbPath="">
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	<caption>Before the Destruction. *Note* Right click on photos to open in new window.</caption>	
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	<caption>Lots of tired looking marine ply.</caption>	
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	<caption>Thanks to Braeden, he blew the side of my boat out with his hip when he thought he could sail in 25 knots.</caption>	
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	<caption>Bracket location for plank attachment. Time to get rid of this outdated system.</caption>	
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	<caption>The paint has held up pretty good for being 10 or more years old.</caption>	
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	<caption>The crack from the inside. Notice the varnished rails. Say goodbye to all of this.</caption>	
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	<caption>Rail #1 removed. What a pain.</caption>	
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	<caption>As promised... the destruction. Taking the thing apart always proves to be the easy part.</caption>	
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	<caption>More destruction. Structurally, it has held together quite well over the years. That is probably attributed to the fact that they used a ton of nails to hold the damn thing together.</caption>	
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	<caption>Rear deck ply taken off.</caption>	
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	<caption>Time to take off the bottom.</caption>	
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	<caption>Marine ply all gone!</caption>	
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	<caption>Time to take that other pesky rail off.</caption>	
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	<caption>Finally done with both rails and marine ply. This is halfway through the stripping process.</caption>	
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	<caption>*WARNING* If you use paint stripper in an unventilated space for three hours and don't use a respirator... you WILL look as shitty as this guy right now! I was sick for 3 weeks because of that.</caption>	
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	<caption>A pile of chunked marine ply, stripped paint, and chemicals.</caption>	
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	<caption>I've started stripping, sanding, and fairing all the nicks, cracks, and holes in the hull.</caption>	
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	<caption>Here's Mike soaking the carbon in resin. We're reinforcing the sides of the DN's with carbon to mitigate the cracking situation that happens with all DNs.</caption>	
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	<caption>Using the squeegy to really soak the carbon.</caption>	
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	<caption>Cutting the roll into strips for the sides of the boats.</caption>	
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	<caption>The carbon laid on.</caption>	
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	<caption>It all got fairly good contact with the boat. There were a few air pockets which have to be chipped out and filled/faired.</caption>	
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	<caption>Time to put on some bombproof rails.</caption>	
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	<caption>Really got some good squeeze on these rails.</caption>	
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	<caption>*Note* You can never have enough clamps IMO.</caption>	
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	<caption>Don't know what prompted this, but Stefan is now angry...</caption>	
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	<caption>... and so retaliation ensues.</caption>	
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	<caption>This is all Mike really comes over for. To sweep the floor and drink beer. In his defence, he brings the beer.</caption>	
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	<caption>He has learned his lesson and wears safety goggles around me from now on.</caption>	
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	<caption>The carbon has been sanded and all the ribs in the cockpit have been replaced with newer, beefier parts.</caption>	
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	<caption>The rails have turned out quite well. It worked out great because the inside carbon ties into the cockpit ribs, and the outside carbon ties into the rails.</caption>	
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	<caption>Optimizing usage by tracing the boat parts onto the 4x8 sheet of Marine Ply.</caption>	
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	<caption>Here's one way to make a sheet disappear quite quickly.</caption>	
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	<caption>Umm...</caption>	
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	<caption>Attaching the bottom skin.</caption>	
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	<caption>Make sure that there is visible squeeze on all joints on the boat. If there isn't any visible (even a hair) then there are potential problems down the road.</caption>	
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	<caption>Forming the cockpit fillet. This will prevent cracking in the future and is a nice finish detail in the cockpit.</caption>	
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	<caption>Using blocks to get clamp pressure everywhere.</caption>		
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	<caption>Cutting the blocks to accomodate the bolt.</caption>		
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	<caption>The cut was made just deep enough to make the bolt flush with the edge of the block.</caption>		
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	<caption>These blocks required some creative clamping to get enough pressure.</caption>		
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	<caption>I drilled slightly into the central rib to accomodate the head of the bolt.</caption>		
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	<caption>The view after both are installed.</caption>		
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	<caption>View from the bottom where I attach the springboard, which will extend off the bow.</caption>
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	<caption>Epoxying the rear deck on first.</caption>
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	<caption>After the rear deck epoxy sets, I then scribe the ends of the caps (for the rails) to the rear deck so they butt flush when the gluing starts.</caption>	
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	<caption>Aligning the caps with the sides/rails.</caption>		
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	<caption>I'll cut the cap here, and then butt the fordeck into both rails which ensures a flush joint.</caption>		
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	<caption>Mixing up the epoxy and microballoons.</caption>		
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	<caption>Final stage of the clamping. Almost there.</caption>		
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	<caption>Once it dries, I can flush-trim the deck skin and then use a radius router bit on every exposed edge.</caption>		
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	<caption>After flushtrimming, I cut the end of the rails back to meet the side of the boat. I then went back over everything with the radius bit.</caption>		
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	<caption>Here I beltsanded the top ply back to meet the curve of the tailcone.</caption>		
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	<caption>Another angle of where the rail meets the side.</caption>		
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	<caption>After a few coats of bondo. This stage really made me hate the fairing process.</caption>		
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	<caption>After a bondo coat on the inside of the cockpit.</caption>		
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	<caption>Cut and bevelled the plank blocks on the bottom of the boat.</caption>		
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	<caption>Gluing the blocks to the bottom.</caption>		
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	<caption>My friend Sean happily volunteered his expertise in finishing during the primer/finish coat stage.</caption>		
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	<caption>I chose Burnt Orange for the finish color. I hope it turns out great on the ice.</caption>		
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</simpleviewerGallery>
